Surfing for Beginners

Surfing is probably one of the most deceiving sports in the world. Watching the grace and agility of an expert surfer, one invariably underestimates the difficulty of learning to surf. Following are a few suggestions for the beginning surfer to ease him through the "kuk" period.

PREPARATION
Purchase a board suited to the rider in size and weight. See your board dealer for proper specifications.

Do not attempt to surf if you are not a good swimmer. Pick a good learners' beach such as Waikiki, San Onofre, Doheny, Huntington Cliffs, etc.

Wax the top of your board before entering the water. This will reduce slickness of glassy surface.

Paddling is the key to success for the beginning surfer. There are no rope tows to pull the beginner out to the breaking point, or artificial methods of accelerating fast enough to catch the wave. The secret of success in paddling— as'it is in most sports — is relaxation. Begin paddling in a prone position with the board almost level. Keep the nose of the board slightly higher than the tail.

CATCHING THE WAVE
Note: The beginner may find learning easier if the first waves are caught in the "soup" (after the waves have broken). The white water will give the surfer the necessary push to catch the wave.

Face shore and begin paddling before the slope of the wave, or white water, reaches the back of the board. With experience, fewer strokes will be needed to catch the wave. Paddle directly toward shore — do not paddle on an angle. As momentum is gained, you will pass the point where paddling will become a drag rather than a pull. At this point, you have almost caught the wave. One of the most common mistakes made by the beginner is not taking an added stroke or two to get down the face of the wave before it gets too steep. The tendency is to stand up at the first indication of a moving wave beneath you. This is the reason why many of the first rides end with either nosing into the water at the bottom of the wave (pearling), getting dumped from the top of the wave in the white water (over the falls), or standing up after the swell has passed.

As you move down the front of the wave, it is usually necessary to arch your back, moving your weight toward the rear of the board. This is to avoid pearling. When the wave has been caught and pearling has been avoided, stand up by pushing up with hands beneath chest. Use hands to keep balance as you rise to your feet. If the balance feels correct, remove hands and stand up. The faster you stand, the less chance you will have for mishaps. Put one foot in front as you stand — preferably left foot forward, unless this feels unnatural.

If you should start to fall, try to fall on or alongside of the board, grabbing it as you do. A loose board is dangerous, as it may pop up and hit you or another surfer inside. This will also eliminate many unnecessary swims. If the wave is of any size, you should dive to the inside (toward wave) or away from the direction of the board.

To stop the board, step back, or if necessary, sit down and drag legs. Later, various pull-outs will be mastered for different situations.

FOOTWORK
The lead foot is the balance foot—the trail foot the turning foot. Keep most of your weight on the lead foot until turn is desired. Right turn is made by applying pressure with trail foot on right rear of board. Left turn by shifting trail foot to left rear of board and applying downward pressure. For a kick-out, or turn over top of wave, apply weight through trail foot on rear of board—to the right side if going right—to the left side of the board if going left. Use front foot as guide as board comes up and through wave.

To accelerate, step foot-over-foot toward the nose of the board. If the wave is breaking or board is headed for pearl, back step (back pedal) foot over foot until rear control is regained. To slow board down (stall), apply weight to rear of board with trail foot — more or less depending on speed desired.

Practice these foot movements on shore.

There are many variations in footwork and learning methods. An experienced surfer should be consulted for further help.